1992-1995 Ford Econoline Front Frame Horn Replacement

Notice

Ford Parts and Service Operations is making every effort to insure that these service parts are placed in its distribution system in the shortest time possible.

Introduction

This bulletin will describe a detailed procedure for replacing the front frame horn on 1992-1995 Ford Econoline vans. Since the frame is manufactured with convolutions in the front horns that are designed to crush during an impact, this portion of the frame should not be straightened after being collapsed in a collision.

To avoid replacing the entire vehicle frame, Ford Parts and Service Operations has made available front frame horn replacement sections for both the left and right sides of all models of this vehicle series. Included with the service part are templates for both inner and outer portions of the frame rail that identify where the cut lines are to be located.

This procedure closely follows the Ford Ranger/Explorer front frame horn replacement operation described in Tech-Cor Research Bulletin 1993-8.

All photographs contained in this bulletin are referenced to the left side of the Vehicle.

Since frame gauge thickness varies between models according to gross vehicle weight rating, it is important that the correct replacement frame horn be ordered for the specific model being repaired.

Due to the configuration of the rail box section at the repair joint, the backer insert for the left side is supplied in two pieces.

The backer insert for the right side is pre-installed in the replacement frame horn.

For the left side, the individual pieces are tack welded into the existing frame from the inside prior to installing the replacement frame horn.

Depending on the drivetrain option and which frame horn is being replaced, certain mechanical components such as air conditioning or fuel lines and other brackets may have to be removed to gain the proper access.

In addition, replacement of the left side frame horn requires removal of the steering gear box. Regardless of which frame horn is being replaced, both front sway bar brackets must be removed so that the sway bar can be lowered and moved out of the way.

The welding specification developed for this particular repair must be followed precisely to ensure proper weld penetration and subsequent joint strength.

The vehicle frame is coated with a hot melt wax when manufactured. This coating must be removed from the area where the section joint will be made prior to fit-up and welding. It can easily be removed with wax and grease removing solvent.

1992-1994 Ford Econoline Front Frame Repair Sequence

1. Locate the appropriate templates and verify they are the correct model, year and side. The templates are labeled Right Hand Inner Siderail, Left Hand Inner Siderail, Right Hand Outer Siderail,and Left Hand Outer Siderail. Each template has arrows pointing in the direction of the front and top of the vehicle and will require trimming before use.

   The left hand side templates can be held in place by inserting the steering gear bolts through the labeled holes on the template and then through the bolt holes in the frame. After each template is in position, scribe a line on the damaged frame on both the inside and outside. Then connect these scribe lines on the top and bottom sides.

   
   

   The right hand side templates also have locations marked where bolts should be inserted. After the templates have been secured to the frame, the cut out portions should be in alignment with the corresponding holes in the frame. A line can then be scribed on the damaged frame.

2. Do not cut directly along the scribed line when removing the damaged frame horn. Leave enough material on the front side of the scribed line to allow the edge to be ground back exactly to the line. This is necessary to insure a precise root gap during fit-up between the frame and the replacement part. Use a reciprocating saw or cutoff wheel for best results.
   

3. Carefully grind a 30° taper along the edge of the replacement horn at the repair joint. Grind a 30° taper along the edge of the existing frame at the repair joint also.

4. Use a wax and grease removing solvent to remove the hot melt wax coating from both the outside and inside surface of the existing frame, within approximately 2 inches (51 mm) of the repair joint.

5. Remove the primer from the outside of the replacement front horn, within approximately 2 inches (51 mm) of the repair joint. Also remove as much primer as possible from the inside of the box section of the replacement part, within approximately 2 inches (51 mm) of the repair joint. This will help welding and minimize weld contamination.

6. On the vehicle frame at the cut line, cut or grind approximately a 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch (6 mm x 6 mm) notch at each of the four corners. These cut outs will enable tack welding to the insert when the replacement frame horn is properly positioned.
   

7. Remove any foreign material from both the existing frame and replacement part within approximately 1 inch (25 mm) of the repair joint (i.e. weld spatter and cutting burrs) to allow for easy and proper fit-up during assembly. Install the backer plate inserts halfway into the existing frame and tack weld from the inside of the frame rail. Refer to Photograph 3 above.

8. Install the replacement horn over the backer inserts. Position the horn in its proper location and clamp securely in place, verifying all measurements including a consistent 5/32 inch (4 mm) at base of root gap. Refer to Figure 1.
   

9. Carefully review all aspects of the welding procedure. All specifications must be met before any welding is started.

   Using the WELDING PROCEDURE SPECIFICATION, select the filler material, shielding gas and welder settings to be used in welding the joint. Slight weaving from one side of the joint to the other may be necessary for complete penetration of the filler metal into both base metal sections and the insert material, as well as completely filling the root gap.

10. Be sure the repair joint and the immediate surrounding area has attained a temperature of at least 50° F before tack welding all four corners at the notched areas.

11. Re-verify all measurements after tack welding. Following the prescribed welding procedures, weld the upper and lower horizontal joints from corner to corner. Next weld the vertical joints from corner to corner.

12. After all welding has been completed, grind the weld material so that it is flush with the siderails. Care must be taken not to thin the base materials.
    

13. Use a dye penetrant to determine ifany cracks or large voids exist in the weld joint after the welding process has been completed. If your establishment does not carry a crack detection penetrant in stock, the following products, made by Magnaflux Corporation, can be utilized. The shelf life of these products is approximately two years.
    • Spot Check Penetrant* SKL-SP
    • Developer SKD-NF/ZP-9B

      * These products can usually be found at welding supply shops. If not, please call Magnaflux Corporation at 708-867-8000 who will give you the locations of dealers in your area.

    If cracks or other defects exist, grind out the defects and repeat steps 11 - 13 until the area no longer shows any imperfections.

14. Clean the repaired areas and any exposed bare metal prior to priming and painting. The enclosed portion of the section joint should also be primed using a wand.

15. After refinishing, the repaired area and the replacement frame horn should be coated both inside and outside with an acceptable waxlike, creeping rust proofing material.

Welding Procedure Specifications

Due to the thickness of the frame rail, which is manufactured from mild steel, the accompanying welding information must be followed precisely to ensure proper penetration.

A M.I.G. welder capable of producing 200 AMPS at a 40% duty cycle must be used. (i.e. Miller Matic 200)

Welding wire should be .035 diameter which meets or exceeds the American Welding Society Standard (AWS/ASME SFA5.18 E-70S-6) with a mixture of 75% argon and 25% carbon dioxide shielding gas. During welding there should be 1/2 inch (12 mm) or less wire sticking out of the contact tip.

With a 5/32 inch (4 mm) gap between the base metals, a continuous welding technique is used for all sides of the rail with full fill expected from one continuous weld pass. Cosmetic completion may be necessary.

Practice welds should be made on the discarded portion of the frame horn prior to welding the replacement part in position.

The information provided in this bulletin is for educational purposes only. Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this bulletin, Tech-Cor assumes no responsibility or liability for any repairs performed using information from any publication issued by Tech-Cor.

Any person performing repairs must determine whether any suggested or recommended procedures or repairs are suitable or appropriate for the particular vehicle being repaired. The repairer remains solely responsible for such determination, as well as for the proper completion of the repairs.

Reproduction of this bulletin is not permitted without the written approval of Tech-Cor.